Breather systems + Hondata CPR

I got a few more items taken care of over the weekend:

Fuel cell breather:
The details are on a previous post but here’s a picture of the finalized setup.

Breather system:
I’m only in the fitment phase but I should have everything finished later this week. The setup consists of an ASP breather box that uses the factory battery tray and integrates a small PC680 style battery. I already had the battery so I just needed the breather box. Also the box consists of six -10AN ports. You can custom order it with as many ports as you wish but for the sake of flexibility I opted for six and in the standard locations. Also due to the cage braces in the engine bay, I had to raise the unit up about 4″ from the normal height.
In terms of the vent/hoses, I’m going to use some leftover hose from my other racecar and will connect them to some existing vent/ports on the engine.
-12AN hose from the valve over to the ASP breather box (using a -12 to -10 reducer)
-12AN hose from the right side/upper block port (above the breather box port) to the ASP breather box
-10AN hose from the left side block port (next to the alternator) to the ASP breather box
-10AN hose from the right side/lower block port (the OE breather box port) to the ASP breather box. This hose will act as a drain.
-All other ports will be capped/unused for the time being

Breather system:
It’s coming along nicely. So far I’ve hooked up to the two -12AN lines, the others will be done later this week.

Hondata CPR:
The retrofit kit is pretty sweet. I won’t go into all the details as you can read about it on Hondata’s site, but basically with a few basic/non-permanent wiring modifications to the OE distributor, and by connecting a special Hondata box to the ECU, you can run individual coilpacks (found in newer Honda’s) instead of the OE igniter, coil, wires, cap, rotor. Generally speaking, the main benefit is that you no longer need to replace the items mentioned above and you’ll also get a stronger and more stable spark. Under racing conditions, heat will often degrade the OE ignition system. Eventually the engine will start to misfire, throw check engine codes or shut-off altogether as the parts start to fail. The Hondata CPR system eliminates those problems and simplifies the system by only using the stock distributor for ref/sync (to determine the engines position), the coilpack for the ignition and sparkplug for the spark. The Denso coils are $40 on Amazon and should last around 100k miles and the Denso Iridium sparkplugs ($40) should last at least 50k miles. Even under race conditions, I’d imagine the coilpacks and sparkplugs will need to be replaced every few seasons (if that). That’s a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run than the unreliable OE parts that have to be replaced on a frequent basis.

Miscellaneous items:
– Added the OE shocks back to the rear hatch. Since I have to add fuel in the truck, holding the hatch open with a pole wasn’t a great option. I’ll remove the shocks once I get the remote fueling working at a later point.

-Added NRG hood shocks. Not for the *bling value* but rather they help with securing the hood on windy days when it’s propped open (the OE rod doesn’t work normally due to the cage interference and carbon hood). At the last event the wind almost broke the hood off.

Suspension Discoveries:
– The Moton suspension settings were very inconsistent. To avoid inducing more variables I never messed with the original shock settings since getting the car. It turns out, the passenger rear was running a max setting while the drivers rear was on the minimum setting. The fronts were pretty close but still a little off. I’m not sure if this explains the unpredictable feeling at the last event but going forward I’m running all four corners on the beginner setting until I get everything dialed in.

Next up:
– Finish the breather system
– Rebuild the transmission (4th gear synchro is bad)
– Replace the fire system (The original fire system bottle (AFFF) is starting to leak/crack. Every one in a while I’ve noticed some soapy feeling foam/bubbles appear on areas where the paint is flaking off. I’ll be replacing it with
– Install a new mysterious part that I’ll reveal later this week

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