New air box arrived!
The new air box arrived last night and wow, just wow. As you can see in the pictures (the original unit is on the left and the new one is on the right), it’s almost identical to the original piece. The main difference is the larger throttle body opening (75mm) and a revised and free flowing air filter element.
As expected the quality is very good, especially given it’s handmade to order.
If anyone is interested in purchasing one of these air boxes, please PM me directly. Given it’s a 100% race part, I’m not sure what modifications would be required on a street car, however, I’m sure the ABS unit has to be removed or relocated.
Carbon floor pan & mirrors arrived!
I haven’t spent time to fit these, however, the carbon quality is very impressive.
Final touches on the fuel system
For originality sake, I added protective aluminum tubes over the fuel fill hoses. Also (not pictured) I wired the fuel pumps and level sender with Tefzel wire and DR25 heatshrink. It’s the same stuff I used on my other race car and is actually the same stuff Mark used for the original fuel system wiring.
Rear lighting wiring
Taking a page from the work I did on my other race car, I decided to start rewiring car. I know… I know, the little projects keep building up, however, I’m making very good process and am actually making things a lot simpler down the road. I’m going to do sections at a time and decided to start with the rear wiring first. In total I removed about 5lbs of wiring by getting the harness down to just six wires. The following items are still functional (rear main parking lights, rear corner parking lights, rear brake lights, rear backup lights, both turn indicators, rear hazard indicators and an optional accessary (rain light). While the weight reduction is of course great, I don’t like having wires in a race car that are potentially hot (have power) and can incidentally short, causing a fire. The harness is also modular (easily removable) and can be easily disabled by unplugging the primary connector and attaching a dummy sealing plug. Also as an extra measure I’ll remove the fuses for any accessories not being used. The wiring harness is already finished and installed, however I forgot to take pictures. I’ll post some up later this week.
Next up is the removal of the door harnesses (I don’t have power windows or door locks), and some minor rewiring of the fire suppression, battery kill, and display system
Brake system overhaul
As I’ve mentioned before, the brake system is more or less all original from 1999. Aside from some cosmetic surface corrosion, I’ve noticed that some of the fittings were starting to leak. Before this becomes a major issue, I’ve removed the entire system for a complete overhaul. As you can see in the picture, this is WAY overdue. I’m in the process of taking measurements so I can order some custom made Goodridge lines and will be replacing the dry brake connectors on all four corners. Additionally, I’m also going to service the front calipers with a seal rebuild kit from Essex/AP Racing, and will be replacing the damaged bridge pipes. I think these parts will be arriving today or tomorrow.
Leaky oil pan, root of all problems
I originally assumed the main seal went bad, however after removing the transmission, clutch, flywheel and inspecting the seal, it looks fine. I did notice a lot of oil seepage from the oil pan gasket, even after having the car on level ground and on jack stands for over four months. I removed the pan and discovered that the sealing flange appears to leaking around the main seal cover assembly. This appears to have been an ongoing problem as I previously removed pan several months ago and installed a new gasket hoping it would solve the oil leak issues. The sealing flange area is pretty beat up and appears to have been welded a few times before, likely a result of blown motors (rod hitting the pan). Later this week I’ll confirm my assumptions with a straight edge on the flange. Additionally, for those that can remember, aluminum Moroso pans are also notorious for leaking (the sealing flange can warp overtime) so this comes as no surprise. Also as you can see, the old pan was also designed for drag racing by having the sump and trap doors designed for accel/decal, not side to side, or surprisingly crankcase windage. Anyhow, the new pan is also pictured. It’s a steel Moroso design with a kickout sump, six trap doors, two main baffles, a removable sump plate and holds 5.5qts (same as before). Dimension wise it’s also the same so header clearance shouldn’t be an issue. I’ll also be using the composite myHondaHabit gasket.