Month: November 2015

Continue reading “ITR Cage work”

Carbon headlight caps & bumper prep
As mentioned in a previous post, I removed the headlights (endurance look) and reattached the original carbon headlight caps (Speedvision World Challenge style). The caps are attached via small black bolts around the headlights. Additionally, and it’s not really pictured but I completely stripped the front bumper to prep it for a repaint. Same goes with the original lip, extended splitter lip and both fenders. (Hopefully we’ll get the paint to be a close match since yellow can be a pain to get perfect).

Continue reading “Getting closer…”

Repaired driver side seat mount
I kid you not, this has been the most irritating flaw with the car. From the very moment I took delivery, I swore I’d have this fixed ASAP. The old and poorly hacked/cut bracket was carefully removed with a spot weld drill before being thoroughly cleaned with a brown fiber 3M roloc disc. The bracket I salvaged from the junk yard (see previous posting) was thoroughly prepped by drilling new spot weld holds, shaping the flange to the floors contour and removing the old paint/coating before welding. The welding was simple enough and even after just one tack weld, the bracket was incredibly strong. To match the seam welded chassis, the bracket was also seam welded in three places. A quick cleaning with the SS wire brush and a wipe down with Isopropyl and the bracket was ready for some soft etching zinc based primer. After two or three coats it was ready for the paint. For the sake of time and since I didn’t have any Y56 paint on hand, I free handed the bracket, surrounding floor and rocker sill with two shades of yellow (one cloudy single-stage light yellow and one deep yellow base). Once dried the color was a pretty good match (lacks a hint of green like Y56). #racecar

Before

After

Continue reading “Tying up loose ends”

Wheel hubs & bearings
While putting the calipers and rotors back on the car I noticed some play with the driver side wheel bearing. Synching it down with an axle helped, however, the outer bearing race kept popping out when the axle wasn’t connected. This to be expected (to some degree), however, given that I didn’t know how old the bearings were, I decided I’d replace them while everything was still in pieces.
So last week I removed the carbon ducts and jumped over to my press to pull everything apart. Much to my surprise I discovered that the front bearings were not using the OE (wax style) grease. While the first picture below looks pretty bad, realize that the grease being used is Redline CV-2 (hence the red/brown color). After some head scratching I recalled that one of the original sponsors Mark had was Redline, and that he may have some more information on the bearings and setup. After some back and forth communications I found out that the front and rear hubs/bearings were likely pieces Mark installed back in 2003, shortly before he sold the car. Apparently (and as some us are very familiar with), the OE wheel bearings fail on a pretty consistent basis, especially when you track the car. Typically the rears fail first but fronts aren’t far off. For the most part, the bearings fail due to the extreme side load and heat they’re subjected to, especially in the rear and especially with sticky tires and large rear anti-roll bars. Mark said he’d typically get 10hrs or so off a set before having to replace them, and for the most part, he’d replace them after race.

Continue reading “Repacking New Wheel Bearings”