Repaired driver side seat mount
I kid you not, this has been the most irritating flaw with the car. From the very moment I took delivery, I swore I’d have this fixed ASAP. The old and poorly hacked/cut bracket was carefully removed with a spot weld drill before being thoroughly cleaned with a brown fiber 3M roloc disc. The bracket I salvaged from the junk yard (see previous posting) was thoroughly prepped by drilling new spot weld holds, shaping the flange to the floors contour and removing the old paint/coating before welding. The welding was simple enough and even after just one tack weld, the bracket was incredibly strong. To match the seam welded chassis, the bracket was also seam welded in three places. A quick cleaning with the SS wire brush and a wipe down with Isopropyl and the bracket was ready for some soft etching zinc based primer. After two or three coats it was ready for the paint. For the sake of time and since I didn’t have any Y56 paint on hand, I free handed the bracket, surrounding floor and rocker sill with two shades of yellow (one cloudy single-stage light yellow and one deep yellow base). Once dried the color was a pretty good match (lacks a hint of green like Y56). #racecar
Passenger side wiring/clean-up
Now that the driver side bracket is fixed, I was able to shift my focus to the passenger side. Historically the passenger side area a been a total mess since after Mark sold the car to the second owner. I did a great deal of clean-up work when I got the car (see previous posts on pages 1-2), however, I wasn’t able to get everything to my liking until now.
First off the battery isolator was relocated side panel, where the passenger side door wiring normally exits (upper right corner). Aside for cosmetic and safety purposes, the relocation now allows me to use less than 12” of cable per run between the Battery, isolator and fuse box. I should see a nice improvement in operating voltage. Also I finalized the hose for the air jacks (lower right corner/side), fire suppression hose (upper middle), rear brake line (left middle). Lastly, I added some rust proofing to the passenger foot brace (turns the metal black).
After – Some minor cleanup earlier this year
After – Current
Passenger side carbon rocker sill cover. Will be installed once the seat placement is finalized. Fire extinguisher bottle (relocated behind the passenger seat), Hondata ECU (relocated inside the dash where the passenger airbag was located), AiM guts (inside the center console where the radio went), backup mechanical oil pressure gauge (reinstalled after picture was taken but can be seen in the picture below)
Driver side almost done
PCI seat brackets
The driver seat was reinstalled with new PCI two-piece seat brackets. The range of adjustments (front, back, side-to-side, up and down) and overall quality is great. Plus it gives me a great mounting point for the sub-harness rather than the floor). I’ll be using these for both the driver and passenger seats.
Brake bias controller
A new AP Racing rear brake bias module was also installed. The old one was semi-original and pretty worn so I opted to replace it with a new revised version (virtually looks the same). Also poking out of the carbon console is the new rear brake line (more to come on that soon).
Steering wheel controls/wiring
A new 8-wire steering wheel bungie cord and a Hirose quick disconnect connector was installed in the OE light dimmer location. The bungie cord is connected to the buttons on the steering wheel giving control of various aspects of the display. I have the ability to run up to eight buttons but currently I’m just using two (to switch display modes “pages” and control a “tagging” mode on the Hondata (so I can tag certain “wtf” moments in the datalog). I also removed the wiper and lighting stalks since I’m not using both accessories. If needed I can quickly reinstall them using a modular harness I’m building. Also I modified the wiring so the hazard switch (and rear lights) still work. Additionally as part of the AiM night vision mode, I’ll be installing a rear rain light (more to come on this).
Also pictured is a new Type R key (after this is a ’98 ITR). Thanks Chase!
Lastly, I also rebuilt the shift linkage and shifter. If you haven’t done this on your high, I highly recommend it. I replaced the o-rings, bushings and seals, and also repacked everything with Honda hi temp urea grease. It’s hard to tell but the shifter is actually offset. I’m not 100% sure but I think the linkage has been modified (more to come on this).
Driver side carbon rocker sill cover. Will be installed once the seat placement is finalized.
The axles that were on the car started to make some noise and would get stuck in the differential (bad splines). To ensure a problem free operation I spoke with Mark for some advice and had some new custom “road race” axles made. The boots are extra thick, the internals were polished, the CV’s were filled with hi-temp grease and all the metal components were heat treated. Also the boots were vented to prevent ballooning. While I have carbon ducts to help cool the CV’s (hi-temp is the common cause for CV failure), these modifications should provide me worry free usage should I decide to do extended sessions or endurance driving. The dogbox and racing clutch will be installed when I swap in the new motor next year (more to come on this).
I reinstalled the flywheel, clutch and transmission (same parts I was previously using). I was originally going to install the Hewland dog box, Tilton multidisc clutch and custom 5lb flywheel from my street car, however, given all the changes I’ve made to the car, I decided to hold off so I can focus on dialing everything else in. No point to add another distraction when I’m driving.
New brake master cylinder
Since I had no idea how old the existing unit was, and since I just overhauled the entire brake system, it would only make sense to replace the master cylinder as a preventive measure.
Composite fuel rail
It’s a minor touch but as part of overhauling the entire fuel system I replaced the old (painted) fuel rail with a new composite version. Aesthetically it’s a nice touch and also simplifies things by having to use fewer fittings.
The original airbox was reinstalled (not the new larger unit). The larger airbox will be saved for the big motor.
Coolant overflow container
The old dingy yellow overflow container was replaced with a new unit found in a box Mark sent me. Even though #racecar, little things like this sure make me smile. Just need to get rid of that stupid over sized worm clamp on the overflow hose.
I spent maybe a day touching up some cosmetic damage in the engine bay and inside the cabin. While it’s not perfect, #racecar, it’s a far cry from how it looked before. Also the color isn’t a perfect match but I was able to blend things pretty well. Below is a before (when I first got it) and after.
ITR strut tower bar & missing grommet on driver side shock tower (forget to put both back before I took the picture)
Engine Bay – Before
Engine Bay – After first cleanup in April/May
Engine Bay – Now
Like I said it’s been a pretty busy two weeks. Despite working my regular 50-60 week plus another 10hrs a week for commuting (got to love Bay Area traffic) I pretty much spend every spare minute on the car. Obsessive I know, but it’s how I am.
More updates to come soon including some more history/research I’ve uncovered!
(I apologize in advance for any typos, I wrote this a rush)