Carbon headlight caps & bumper prep
As mentioned in a previous post, I removed the headlights (endurance look) and reattached the original carbon headlight caps (Speedvision World Challenge style). The caps are attached via small black bolts around the headlights. Additionally, and it’s not really pictured but I completely stripped the front bumper to prep it for a repaint. Same goes with the original lip, extended splitter lip and both fenders. (Hopefully we’ll get the paint to be a close match since yellow can be a pain to get perfect).
Dashboard finished & glove box cover added
The dashboard is fully complete and buttoned up. I also added back the factory glove box cover and provisioned it with the USB bulkhead connector for the AiM display (located where the release latch was located. The glove box doesn’t work as it’s just a delete cover. Also you probably noticed the oily “glossy” look the dash has. I gave it a one over with some plastic UV conditioner to help prevent it from cracking in the sun. Once the oils have soaked in, I’ll give it a wipe down with some surface oil remover to bring back the dull/matte look (anti-glare protection). More to come…
Rear Track Decals added
Details…details…details. To recognize the history of the car I decided to add decals of every track the car was raced on. After a few hours of cleaning and hand polishing the fuel system cover was ready for the decals. The list is: Spa Francorchamps (2001 & 2003), Texas Motor Speedway (2001), Mosport (2001), Sears Point/Sonoma Raceway (2001), Portland International Raceway (2001), Laguna Seca (2001 & 2015), Road Atlanta (2001 & 2002), Sebring (2002 & 2004), Mid-Ohio (2002), RFK Stadium Circuit (2002), and Thunderhill (2015).
Update: I thought my research was pretty good, however, Mark just let know I missed a few (Roebling Road, Barber Motorsports Parks and Moroso Motorsports Park).
Rear brake system
As you can see in the pictures above and below, the rear brake system is now fully plumbed. The rear brake line comes out the center console (from the brake bias adjuster), connects to a rear brake pressure sensor and then connects to a T-fitting. From the T-fitting and on both sides, a continuous line runs around the rear seat area, up the wheel well arch and through a small hole on both sides. The lines connect directly to the Staubli dry-brake connectors which then connect to the rear brake lines. The lines were custom made by Goodridge and covered in Raychem DR-25 and a special 4:1 adhesive lined Raychem cover (to keep dirt and moisture off the lines).
Fire system is back in
Nothing major but I remounted the bottle, cleaned up the wiring (it’s electrical based, not mechanical) and finished the plumbing. I’ll zip tie a few loose ends next week.
Worn out rear hatch pins
This has been bothering me for a while and finally got around to fixing it. The rear hatch pins were aluminum and had worn out over time (they were the original pins from 2000). As you can see in the pictures below, the eyelet was getting close to breaking and potentially creating an ugly situation should the hatch open while cornering. The new pins (not pictured) are steel based and should easily last another 15+ years.
Exhaust reinstalled & heat shield was added
This is probably a little overkill but I decided to add an extra layer of heat protection near the fuel box, brake line and shock hose by attaching a special heat mat around the exhaust piping. The heat mat has standoff mounts that allow air to flow though and the mat should handle temps over 1350F. I also added a small section between the exhaust manifold and oil pan. We’ll see if this stuff really works or helps…