Rear anti-roll bar
The blades and end links are installed, just need to set the preload on the alignment rack.
Battery Isolator Issues
Randomly the other day the (new) battery isolator started to acting up and of course right when I get the car finished. When pressing the power button to activate the unit, the device will turn on, however, it won’t open the ground circuit to the car. Without the ground circuit open, the car doesn’t get a ground connection to the battery. In speaking with Mark over the weekend, he told me it’s a common problem, but one typically seen after being exposed to high amounts of moisture. Most likely my unit is just defective since is brand new and hasn’t been used aside from a few dozen power cycles while the cars been on jack stands. I’m still waiting for a response from on the company (they’re located in the UK), however, worst case I’ll simply bypass the ground circuit until I can get it replaced. Additionally, and Mark’s suggestion, I’ll carry a back-up unit in the event I have problems at the track.
This is exactly why I left the car on jack stands and heat cycled the motor several times over the course of a week. Turns out I have a pretty decent oil leak coming from driver side of the oil pan. I’m getting about a drop of oil every twenty seconds or so with the motor running. The oil pan is brand new (steel type), the gasket is new (composite type), and I upgraded to hardware to studs and am using hi-temp Hondabond on the mating surfaces of the end plates (main seal plate and oil pump). From what I can tell, it looks like the seal on the oil pump is bad (unknown age as it came with the car).
So far I’ve removed the crank pulley and timing belt cover and will remove the timing belt and gear tonight to get a better look. Either I’ll swap the seal or will replace the oil pump. Stupid problem but one I think has been getting worse over time and has been causing oil leaking on the track.
Well, I found the source of the oil leak. As suspected it was the seal on the oil pump. At idle it caused a very small leak but imagine what it looks like on the track at full rpm and operating temp. Since day 1 I’ve had a leak coming from the pan area but haven’t been able to locate the source until now. It’s hard to identify the cause, but it was either install error or something forced the seal to get twisted. Regardless, it’s an easy swap and should finally resolve the leaking issues.
Wheels and tires are back on
Since the new NT01’s were destroyed during the last outing (when then the rear upper end-link broke), I mounted some fresh NT01’s on the 15×8’s. It’s such a good feeling to see the wheels back on. Sadly however, the car will remain on jack stands until I get the oil leak fixed.
I more or less finished clearancing the front splitter for the air jacks and billet safety support brace. Here’s a picture of the brace attached which will support the car in the event air pressure is accidently released while the air jack are deployed. Additionally, I’ll be creating a four inch platform that can slip under the car to give the car an extra lift should it be needed on irregular surfaces.
This is how the engine bay looks it’s completed/running state.